Day 11 - Berducedo to Grandas de Salime

The morning started with a super-keen (and inconsiderate) pilgrim packing his kit at 5:30AM and exiting the albergue at 6AM. There then proceeded a series of barking dogs, the crowing of a rooster, and the braying of a donkey as he noisily clack-clack-clacked through the darkened streets of Berducedo. So basically this guy pissed off not only his fellow pilgrims but everybody in the village too. Well done, sir. 

In a nutshell, today was a walk up a big hill, down an even bigger hill, across a dam, and then back up a hill. The downhill stretch was fairly tough on the knees, but what really rubbed salt into the wounds was being able to see the pilgrims struggling uphill on the other side of the valley and knowing that that’ll be you very shortly.

Today’s countryside was a mix of farmlands, with their spinning wind turbines, followed by pine forests. At the lowest point of this stage stood the Embalsa de Salime, a drab and imposing concrete dam and hydroelectric plant. Built in the 1950s, the empty houses and factories used during its construction now dot the surrounding hillside, giving it a certain eeriness. From that point it was all the way uphill to tonight’s resting place, Grandas de Salime. 

After a tough slog I was starving, so I decided to grab the menu del dia at the nearest restaurant post haste. It turned out to be a smart move as the food was sensational! And cheap!! I merrily made my way through a potato and pork rib stew, rabbit with potatoes, and a pineapple cheesecake to finish, all washed down with red wine and coffee. Now to relax, drink some beers and play my new favorite card game, ‘Shithead’.

Distance - 20Km 

Difficulty - ⭐️⭐️⭐️ & a half/5

Camin-oh no! - Finding your bed on the third floor after a knee-breaking up and down day. 

Camin-oh hell yeah! - Learning AND actually remembering the rules to the card game, ‘Shithead’.

@caminoagogo